Nara

Nara is a compact city in the Kansai region that served as Japan's capital in the eighth century, before Kyoto took the title. The monuments of that era still outscale almost everything built since, and more than a thousand wild deer roam the central park as living symbols of the old gods.

Todai-ji's Great Buddha Hall shelters a bronze Buddha about 15 meters tall, and the deer bow for crackers sold on the spot. Lantern-lined paths lead to Kasuga Taisha shrine in the forest, and the quieter gardens of Isuien reward the walk back toward the station.

Nara works well as a day trip from Kyoto or Osaka on frequent trains, though staying overnight gives you the park at dawn, before the tour buses arrive. Autumn light through the park's trees is the photographers' favorite. Kakinoha sushi, pressed in persimmon leaves, makes the local lunch.